In a long list of turn-offs for discerning watch lovers, two-tone metal watches are right up there with the 4:30 date window and lots of dial text. But if a lot of people didn’t like two-tone watches, brands wouldn’t make two-tone fake watches. And I’m one of those people. In my opinion, it’s actually quite stylish. In fact, since 50% of your watch is made of gold, there’s no benefit in terms of function, style is the point.
However, in the case of two-tone, in many cases, it is. That’s because this alluring blend of stainless steel and gold saw its heyday in the 1980s when many current grandfathers were at the height of their watch buying power. Not everyone wanted or was ready to buy an all-gold watch. In fact, it is well known that gold watches symbolize retirement and the end of something. That means you’re in it, baby – and you’re just getting started.
We’ve already covered Tom Selleck and the Magnum P.I. on the site this week, but it’s worth noting that while the Magnum was defined by the Rolex GMT-Master 16750, Selleck’s personal watch at the time was the two-tone Rolex Datejust. In American Psycho, Wall Street banker and serial killer Patrick Bateman wears a two-tone Rolex Datejust watch with a rarely seen linen dial.
Even without that film, the Datejust would have been the most iconic two-tone watch of all time. Unlike other watches, which are defined by being two-tone models, the Datejust is a two-tone model with a two-tone Jubilee bracelet, and while not an invention of the 1980s, it is a watch that defined the decade. In addition to being an empirically good-looking timepiece, it represents the best value in vintage replica watches today. Dare I say that it is the most under-appreciated watch available? I dare say it. I’m saying yes.
But it’s hardly the only two-tone classic. Take another example, the Cartier Santos, with its gold bezel and two-tone Santos bracelet. The angular case shape combined with the 70s design language of the iconic bracelet, all strung together in stainless steel and gold.
Two-tone has also permeated some of the iconic steel sports watches and given them a new lease of life. Many collectors consider these watches to be the exception to the no two-tone rule. I’m referring to the two-tone Submariner with its blue bezel and blue dial, and the famous Rolex GMT-Master Root Beer. While I’m not bashing the stainless steel Submariner or GMT-Master, each two-tone example is a fantastic alternative.